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Mowing
 Proper mowing techniques can dramatically improve a lawn’s appearance and overall health. The recommended mowing height for Colorado’s cool season grass types is 2.5 inches from March-April and the middle of September to October and 3 inches or higher from May-September. Often the highest setting on most mower types is 3 inches. Mowing the grass at 3 inches will prevent diseases, help the grass retain water and promote the roots to grow deeper. A lawn should be mowed frequently enough that no more than 33% of the foliage is removed at one time. Lawn mower blades should be sharpened once every five mows. Sharpen the blade at a 45-degree angle for the best results. An easily noticeable sign of a dull blade is when the tips of the grass are ripped turning them white. One final suggestion for properly mowing a lawn is to rotate the direction of the cut every mow. For instance, mow lengthwise one week, width wise the next, and diagonal the following. By following these instructions you will put less stress on your lawn, helping create the lush green lawn that you desire.
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Mulching
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The clippings from this yard are
mulched every week.
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The lawn’s clippings are very beneficial to a healthy nutrient cycle. Mulching adds vital nutrients and water back to the soil without causing thatch buildup. Grass is 90% water and decomposes quickly becoming almost invisible within a few hours after mowing. Mulching will be beneficial for the lawn as long as no more than 33% of the foliage is removed.
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Watering
 Under and over watering is the most common mistake made in lawn care. Some signs of over watering are standing water, over abundance of insects, molds, and a shallow root system. Over watering causes the soil to become poorly aerated and increases the lawn’s susceptibility to disease. Too much water fills the soil’s air pockets and makes it so little or no air can reach the root system.
Signs of an under watered lawn include the yellowing of turf and after walking over the lawn the footprints remain visible for a few minutes. An ideal moisture level in the soil is 25% water, 25% air, and 50% soil. When a lawn becomes brown or looks dry water should be added to a lawn as soon as possible. The best time to water a lawn is at 5:00 AM. If this is not feasible than the next best time is late evening. Always water deeply and infrequently because it helps promote strong deep digging roots that are drought resistant. Frequent shallow watering promotes short roots that are very drought susceptible and is very wasteful of water. From April to mid May, watering should be cut back due to the added rainfall and cooler temperatures. From June to early September, watering should be increased due to excessive heat. To reduce watering requirements, save water, or if you have a difficult time maintaining moisture in your soil try our water retention solvent the Rain Maker.
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» Read what the CSU Cooperative Extension recommends for watering in Colorado
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Watering Table for Colorado with a Bluegrass Lawn
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Daytime Temperature
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Watering Requirements without Rain Maker
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Watering Requirements with Rain Maker
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Greater than 85 degrees F
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2 inches of water per week
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1.5 inches of water per week
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Less than 85 degrees F
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1.5 inches of water per week
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1 inch of water per week
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Watering Table for Colorado with a Fescue Lawn
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Daytime Temperature
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Watering Requirements
without Rain Maker
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Watering Requirements
with Rain Maker
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Greater than 85 degrees F
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1.5 inches of water per week
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1 inch of water per week
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Less than 85 degrees F
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1 inch of water per week
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.5 inch of water per week
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Inches of Water? To determine how much water your sprinkler system dispenses use a flat container like a Tupperware dish and place it in your lawn. Run your sprinklers for 30 minutes then measure the water depth. If there is 1/2 inch of water in 30 minutes you need to water 3 days per week for 30 minutes to obtain 1.5 inches of water per week
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Nutrients
The three numbers on the bag of fertilizer represent the amount of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium per pound of fertilizer (i.e. 15-1-9). Different kinds of nitrogen are used at different times of year. Fast release nitrogen is used in the spring to bring back color and health while insoluble (slowly release) nitrogen is used in the fall to sustain the life of the lawn. Phosphorous is the nutrient responsible for flower development and overall plant health. Potassium promotes disease resistance, water intake, and the development of root systems. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are the most important nutrients in plant healthcare, but small amounts of trace nutrients are also necessary for optimum performance. Examples of secondary or trace nutrients include calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron and iron. Carefully read the label of the fertilizer to make sure it contains the correct mix of nutrients for your lawn and is comprised of the proper nitrogen source for the season.
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Thatch
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The thatch layer is where the quarter is located.
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Thatch is composed of a tightly intermingled layer of stems, leaves and grass roots, which accumulates between the vegetation and the soil. Too much thatch increases the turf’s susceptibility to diseases, reduces its tolerance to drought, cold, and heat; and hinders the movement of air, water, fertilizers, and nutrients into the soil. In severe cases roots of the grass will not grow into the soil but actually take root in the thatch layer making the turf susceptible to drought and heat stress.
Thatch will accumulate if the production of dead material exceeds the ability of the microorganisms to break down the material into elemental components. Thatch build-up increases during poor soil aeration and drainage, cold soils, the use of some pesticides, and the excessive use of fast release nitrogen fertilizers especially in a water-soluble form (Controlling Turfgrass Pests). Using non-organic or fast release fertilizers inhibit microorganism activity, which helps decompose thatch. When a thatch layer is greater than 3/4 of an inch thick it may need to be physically removed.
The best way to quickly repair a thatch problem is by power raking the lawn or physically removing the thatch layer. To prevent major damage power raking must be performed before the lawn greens up. When a severe thatch layer is discovered after the lawn has already greened-up than the thatch should be controlled through an increase of microbial activity and/or a reduction of the growth rate of the turf. The best methods of increasing microbial activity in the soil is by using only organic fertilizers, core aerating, and by adding a microorganism stimulant like Humate or Rescue MDS.
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Thatch Preventative Practices
- Mowing - Never cut more than 1/3 of the blade of grass at one time. Mulching does not increase the tendency to build thatch. Change the mowing height to 2.5 inches in the spring and fall and increase the height to 3 inches in the summer.
- Fertilizing - Fast release nitrogen applications will result in a decrease in thatch decomposition and an increase in thatch production rates. Always avoid high dosages of synthetic nitrogen sources like ammonium nitrate and urea.
- Irrigation - Avoid light and frequent watering. Always irrigate the turf deeply and infrequently. This entices the roots of the grass to grow deep into the soil instead of the thatch layer.
- Pesticide - Pesticides negatively affect desirable microorganism and earthworm populations. Pesticides should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.
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Crabgrass vs. Tall Fescue
Tall fescue is frequently incorrectly identified as crabgrass. Tall fescue is a thick bladed fast growing uncontrollable perennial grass that usually grows in clumps in the middle of a lawn. Crabgrass, however, is an annual grass that germinates during the months of July and August. Crabgrass is light green in color and usually grows in clumps on the edges of the lawn. People are often misinformed and under the impression that crabgrass is only controllable with a pre-emergent weed control. Crabgrass is selectively post-emergently controllable with a special application of Drive and will die within 3-7 days after the application. Tall fescue on the other hand is not selectively controllable with neither a post-emergent nor a pre-emergent herbicide.
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Crabgrass is controllable using Drive 75. It is best to treat this grass early before it spreads seeds.
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Tall Fescue is uncontrollable with selective controls. Only a non-selective control like Roundup will kill tall fescue
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This is a closeup of a
Tall Fescue grass blade.
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Disease/Fungus Identification
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This lawn has rust damage. The first step in treating a lawn problem is proper identification of the problem.
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All species of plants are subject to disease infestations, and fungi cause the majority of diseases. Turfgrasses are more susceptible to disease infestations than other plant life because turf is comprised of a large number of similar species having a uniform genetic makeup. During stressful conditions like heat, drought and poor cultural practices a pathogen (disease or fungus) invades a small area of the turfgrass becoming destructive and usually spreads very easily. The most effective preventative to pathogen infestations is to maintain good cultural practices, such as proper mowing techniques, the use of organic fertilizers, deep and infrequent watering, annual aeration, the use of pesticides only when necessary, and the selection of strong turfgrass cultivars.
The two most common fungus problems in the Front Range of Colorado are Necrotic Ring Spot and Ascochyta Leaf Spot, but other potential problems include: Anthracnose, Dollar Spot, Powdery Mildew, Pink and Grey Snow mold, Fusarium Leaf Spot, Melting Out, Sod Webworm, Clover/Spider Mites and others.
The first step in the treatment of a disease is a proper identification. At Organo-Lawn we have state licensed professionals with years of experience in disease identification. Always call us prior to applying potentially dangerous and unnecessary fungicides to your lawn. After we have accurately identified the disease we will draw up a plan of attack, which often involves such simple changes as mowing height and watering schedules. Some fungus problems require a more aggressive approach but rarely do we have to use a conventional fungicide, because many or our organic products are proven treatments for common lawn diseases like Necrotic Ring Spot, Dollar Spot, and Localized Dry Spot.
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Dog Spot, RoundUp Damage, & Necrotic Ring Spot
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Dog Spot
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Dog Spots are caused by an abundance of ammonia concentrated in one location. The ammonia in the dog urine causes an excessive amount of nitrogen for the grass to absorb. The center of the dog spot is exposed to too much nitrogen burning the grass. The edges are exposed to large quantities of nitrogen, turning the grass dark green. There is no recommended product to prevent dog spots from occurring, but some more effective experiments include changing dog food manufacturers, supplements of herbal vitamins, and watering the lawn frequently.
Read about what Dr. Steve Thompson, DVM -Director of Purdue University Veterinary has to say about dog spots in his article "DOG-ON-IT" LAWN PROBLEMS |
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This lawn in Ft. Collins suffers from Glyphosate damage caused by a spot application of Roundup® intended for the weeds.
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Roundup® also known by its chemical name Glyphosate will kill all vegetation including grass. Many homeowners and lawn care personnel have made the mistake of spot applying Roundup® on a lawn believing that they could be very careful and spray the weed without hurting the grass. The result of the application often looks like a disease at first glance, but after closer investigation the true cause of the damage is a lack of common sense. This homeowner’s grass will require expensive landscaping and new sod to repair the damage.
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Necrotic Ring Spot
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Early stages of Necrotic Ring Spot
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This lawn is suffering from early stages of Necrotic Ring Spot. This fungus is can be very difficult to control.
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Necrotic Ring Spot is a soil borne fungus, which is identified by circular to irregular sunken straw colored or gray patches approximately 4-16 inches in diameter.
Most fungus problems occur from poor watering practices. Necrotic ring spot is no exception and tends to be caused to excessive watering.
The necrotic ring spot fungus is active from early spring to late spring and again in the late fall. The necrotic ring spot fungus attacks bluegrass and fescue grass cultivars but will not attack ryegrass cultivars.
Typically necrotic ring spot is found in areas that are moist and have poor drainage. Necrotic ring spot is stimulated by poor cultural practices, fast release water-soluble nitrogen sources like those used in products like Scotts®, and compacted soils. When an outbreak occurs necrotic ring spot is difficult to control and will take about 9 months to treat. The fungus spores will always be present unless you dig out the infected soil and re-sod or seed. This is not recommended because not only is the removal process very expensive, but there is no guarantee all the spores well be removed from the soil.
Necrotic ring spot is like a cold to a human. Everybody can get a cold; however, the healthier the person the less likely the person is to contract a cold. The same applies with turfgrass; proper fertilization, watering, mowing and strong soil conditions tend to have fewer diseases.
The recommendations to treat necrotic ring spot are as follows:
- Change the watering schedule of the lawn. Necrotic ring sot tends to be found in moist or wet areas with poor drainage. Make sure to water deeply and infrequently giving 2-3 days between irrigation. Do not water every day. Also it is important to water early in the morning as apposed to late at night.
- Perform 2-3 aerations, one in the spring, one in the early summer, and one in the fall to alleviate soil compaction.
- Manually remove the dead grass.
- Top-seed the damaged areas with ryegrass. Ryegrass is tolerant to necrotic ring spot and will not develop problems even if the fungus is present. Seed in the spring (April, May) or if necessary in fall before the second week of September.
- Treat with Humate soil conditioner 2 times per year because it will stimulate beneficial microbial activity. Do not fertilize with Scott's™ or a similar product because it can stimulate the fungus.
- Lightly spray the area 2-3 times a year with: 98% water, 1% surfactant (Ivory soap is fine), 1% horticultural hydrogen peroxide.
- DO NOT apply synthetic herbicides (weed control) to the area. Herbicides can hinder essential beneficial microbial activity
- Never mow when grass is wet and always wait 24 hours after a mowing to water the grass. After a mowing the grass blades have been damaged. It takes 24 hours for a grass to repair the abrasion. If water is added to the lawn before the lesion has time to heal the fungus can use the water as a transportation mechanism and infect new and otherwise healthy blades or grass.
- Until the fungus is eliminated, bag the grass in the infected area; increase the mowing height to 3” or 3.5” and increase the mowing frequency so no more than 1/3 of the blade of grass is removed per mowing.
- If the lawn does not respond to steps 1-9 and it has been 1 years since you have begun treating the disease we recommend an application of a fungicide called Cleary’s 3336. This fungicide should be applied in March and again in late September. Contact our office to learn more about this product. Note: We only recommend this product after all other options have failed.
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Dry Lawn vs. Ascochyta/ Dollar Spot
A Dry Lawn is often misdiagnosed as a fungus. Early symptoms of a dry lawn include wilting and a rapid darkening of color. Later symptoms of a dry lawn include straw like colored grass commingled with green-brown colored grass and a lack of resilience to foot traffic with the remains of footprints. The soil underneath the grass is very dry and often compacted and difficult to penetrate with a soil sampler. When a soil sample is taken adequate water should reach at least 6-8 inches below the surface of the soil.
A deep watering should be immediately applied to the lawn if it is determined to be dry. Continue with daily deep watering until the moisture has reached 6-8 inches below the surface of the soil. If the soil has difficulty absorbing and maintaining adequate moisture levels we recommend performing one or all of the following:
- Perform aeration in the spring and/or the fall. Summer aerations are not recommended because the sun and heat can dehydrate the soil very fast and damage the turf's root system.
- Perform an application of Rain Maker at any time of the year.
- Apply Humate Soil Conditioner at any time of the year.
- Have Yucca and Liquid Humate Surfactant/Emulsification applied at any time of year.
- Correct the watering practices and closely follow this watering table.
- Double check sprinkler coverage to confirm that the dry spots are receiving adequate moisture. Often automatic sprinklers break, need maintenance, or are blocked by fast growing shrubs, trees or flowers.
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This lawn is severly drought stressed. When a lawn is drought stressed apply 3 deep waterings on three consecutive days (at proper watering times) and then go back to a proper watering schedule.
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This dry lawn only needs a few deep waterings
to turn it green again.
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This lawn is suffering from Ascochyta leaf blight. Notice the patchyness and the bright “straw like color” which are indicating features of the fungus.
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Close up shot of an Ascochyta/Dollar Spot leison
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This Emerald III turf-type tall fescue lawn is
suffering from severe ascochyta/dollar spot
caused by heat and drought stress.
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Ascochyta Leaf Blight/Dollar Spot is a fungus that attacks all cultivars of turfgrass worldwide. The fungus is active when daytime temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit particularly in turf that is nitrogen deficient.
Most fungus problems occur from poor watering practices. Ascochyta/Dollar Spot is no exception and tends to be caused by under watering. Typically Ascochyta is found where poor sprinkler coverage occurs or in areas where no water is being applied to a lawn.
Examining newly infected leaf blades is an easy way to identify Ascochyta/Dollar Spot. The blade of the grass will collapse (fold in half lengthwise) and the damage to the blade will be first located in the center of the blade of grass with the top and the bottom of the blade unaffected. This means that the grass tip will be green the center will be brown and the bottom will be green. Ascochyta/Dollar Spot seldom causes extensive damage; however, treatment is necessary to avoid reoccurring outbreaks.
Even though Ascochyta/Dollar Spot tends to be found in areas of drought the fungus enters the grass through damaged or cut leaf tips and often uses water as a transportation method to infect new blades of grass. This is why step number 5 below is important to follow when a disease is identified.
Ascochyta/Dollar Spot is like a cold to a human. Everybody can get a cold; however, the healthier the person the less likely the person is to contract a cold. The same applies with turfgrass; proper fertilization, watering, mowing and strong soil conditions tend to have fewer diseases.
The recommendations to treat Ascochyta/Dollar Spot are as follows:
- Change the watering schedule of the lawn. Ascochyta/ Dollar Spot tends to be found in dry or under watered areas with direct sunlight. After you correct your watering practices, fix the broken sprinkler head or poor sprinkler coverage; give the lawn 3 deep watering on 3 consecutive days. After the 3 deep soakings adjust your watering schedule to water deeply and infrequently giving 2-3 days between irrigation. Also it is important to water early in the morning as instead of late at night or even worse in the daytime.
- Perform 2 aerations, one in the Spring and one in the Fall to alleviate soil compaction.
- Apply Humate Soil Conditioner at any time of the year or at any time that the disease is active.
- Avoid applying synthetic pesticides (weed control and fungicides) to the area. Pesticides can hinder microbial activity, which is essential to proper treatment of Ascochyta/Dollar Spot.
- Never mow when grass is wet and always wait 24 hours after a mowing to water the grass. After a mowing the grass blades have been damaged. It takes 24 hours for a grass to repair the abrasion. If water is added to the lawn before the lesion has time to heal the fungus can use the water as a transportation mechanism and infect new and otherwise healthy blades or grass.
- Until the fungus is eliminated, bag the grass in the infected area; increase the mowing height to 3” or 3.5” and increase the mowing frequency so no more than 1/3 of the blade of grass is removed per mowing..
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