Top Seeding - FAQs
Q. How long do I have to stay off the lawn after seeding?
A. Stay off of lawn as much as possible and avoid heavy traffic for 6 weeks after the service is performed. Heavy foot traffic will decrease the percentage of seeds that germinate properly.
Q. How is it applied?
A. The seed is applied with a chest spreader, Humate is applied with a push spreader, and Rain Maker is applied with a hand spreader. We also perform an aeration as part of the package.
Q. Can you apply weed control before or after top seeding?
A. Ideally post-emergent weed control can be applied one to two days before a top seeding or two weeks after. A pre-emergent should not be applied 3-4 weeks before or after a seeding. A pre-emergent may affect seed germination and some post-emergent weed controls can affect growing seedlings.
Q. It has been a week and I still don’t see any seed germination, why is it not working?
A. Grass seeds germinate at different times: Ryegrass germinates after 9 days, Fescue germinates after 16 days, and Bluegrass germinates after 22 days. You may also need to water more than you think you need to; the seeds will not germinate without adequate moisture.
Q. How much water do I need to apply for it to work?
A. The lawn needs a daily watering for four to six weeks. We recommend 10 minutes of water on every section, every day. Also continue watering regularly for a total of 1.5” of water per week over 2-3 days per week.
Q. What is the difference between the seed choices?
A. All of our seed types look pleasing to the eye and have good color and feel soft to the touch.
- Supreme is comprised of 70% Kentucky Blue (Allblue blend), 20% Perennial Rye (Four-Play), 10% Creeping Red Fescue. This blend is a very deep green color, with excellent wear ability, good disease resistance and winter hardiness, but it requires more water and frequent mowing. Many people are drawn to bluegrass because it is very aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
- Ecological is comprised of 20% Hard Fescue, 20% Chewing’s Fescue, 20% Creeping Red Fescue, 25% Kentucky Bluegrass, and 15% Perennial Ryegrass. It is a quick establishing, dense, low growing turf that requires less mowing. The mix is very fine textured, can be used in open sun and yet has good shade and drought tolerance. It tolerates poor soil conditions and low fertility. It is not recommended for high traffic areas or athletic fields.
- Emerald III is comprised of 33.3% Jaguar II Turf-Type Tall Fescue, 33.3% Mustang Turf-Type Tall Fescue, and 33.3% Rebel II Turf-Type Tall Fescue. Emerald III is tough and durable and can tolerate low mowing heights, hot weather, and extreme drought with limited watering and is adaptable to moist soils. It bounces back from heavy foot traffic well and will perform well in sun or shade.
Q. When can I mow the lawn?
A. Try not to mow 10 days to two weeks after any seeding. When you mow make sure to do so on the highest setting.
Q. How effective is top seeding?
A. Top seeding is designed to fill in small gaps and establish young grass into an older and thinner lawn. Only about 50-80% of the grass seeds applied will germinate (with proper watering) so a second application may be required for very thin lawns.
Q. How does fertilizer affect seed germination?
A. Fertilizer decreases grass seed germination. Typical rates are 50%-80%. With fertilizer, rates decrease to 10%-40%, as this can overstimulate new seed.
Q. Why do we consider Emerald III to be a better choice than Bluegrass?
A. Emerald III has a fine texture, rich dark green color and dense, uniform turf, with Bluegrass-like qualities. Emerald III is tough and durable. It is cold tolerant and can endure low mowing heights. Once established, it needs less fertilization and thrives in hot weather and drought with limited watering. It bounces back from traffic and heavy use. It will perform well in full shade and has a wide range of adaptability and pH tolerances. It is very drought and disease resistant and is the ideal grass type for Colorado. Two of the three seed cultivars were rated #1 in their respected category in 2006.
Q. Can I put Emerald III into a Bluegrass lawn?
A. Yes, you can apply Emerald III over a Bluegrass lawn, but you will see a difference between the two grass types. Emerald III has a wider blade and has a deeper green color. We may recommend doing this if your lawn has heavily shaded areas where the Bluegrass is not performing well.
Q. Does Emerald III look like the tall fescue clump grass that infests many lawns?
A. No. Emerald III is a turf-type tall fescue which means it grows uniformly, is soft to the touch, and looks like a traditional lawn. The unimproved tall fescue that many people consider a problem grass is clumpy, stiff to the touch, and has an irregular growth habit.
Q. How much less water does Emerald III require after it is established compared to a Bluegrass seed blend?
A. Once established Emerald III requires about a third less water compared to Bluegrass lawns.
Q. Why don't many landscapers recommend Tall Fescue blends instead of Bluegrass blends?
A. Tall fescue is a clump grass which makes it difficult to sod. Tall fescue sod does not stay in rolls and therefore to establish a tall fescue lawn it must be seeded. Most of the sod rolls you see will be bluegrass blends.